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Here is some information from the CDC about cloth face coverings.
This is how I make the masks from the Craft Passion website.
I turn the edges under instead of doing it the way its shown in the original instructions. Tucking in the ends to form a hem, rather than folding over the ends to make a casing, makes the mask slightly wide, and uses less elastic. Elastic is in short supply right now.
If you're interested in my previous post, it has lots of information that I won't repeat here. I suggest you watch the videos at the end of that post, too.
I really make my masks this way. Although for children I don't put the pocket for an extra filter inside. The children are just getting used to wearing a mask and they aren't the ones most at risk.
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| I also add a small pleat on each side so the mask fits better. |
Regular sewing supplies including sewing machine, thread, scissors, pins.
100% pre-washed cotton fabric that is as tightly woven as possible. 100% cotton holds up under repeated washings in high temperature.
Medium weight interfacing for lining. I have 20" rolls for my embroidery business. This size from World Weidner might be better for home sewers. I also use this Metro brand stabilizer. It's a little softer than the World Weidner.
1/4" braided elastic if you can find it. You can also use tee-shirt yarn. If you can find hair elastics, those work, too if you can get the 2mm kind. I've used this kind with good results if you put a knot in the end to hold it in the seam. You'll need 2 pieces of 5 1/2" - 6 1/2" elastic. I wish there was a 'one size fits all' mask and elastic, but there isn't. You may have to make one or two masks to get a size that's appropriate for your face.
Wire for the nose piece. Some people are using a long pipe cleaner twisted double so that it's 2 pipe cleaners thick. It's soft and comfortable, but we don't know how long it will hold up in the wash. I'm using 18 gauge copper wire that I purchased at Lowe's.
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| I cut my pieces 5 1/2" long and turn the ends under so they don't poke through the fabric. |
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| Plastic beading foot, or cording foot to sew the wire into a casing. You can use a zipper foot if that's easier for you. |
Cutting
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Cut 2 interfacing (or stabilizer) using the Lining Fabric pattern piece.
Cut 2 of another fabric for the pocket. Notice that piece is about 3/4" shorter from left to right so that the pocket is easily accessible if an added filter is wanted.
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| I use a sheet for the filter pocket. Notice that the filter pocket is shorter than the interfacing piece. |
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| Place the pocket pieces together. |
I sew all my seams about 1/4"
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| Serge or sew the center front seam and the two edges. If you don't have a serger to finish the two edges, turn the edges under twice to cover the raw edges. |
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| Turn the edges under to make a hem. Top-stitch in place. |
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| Place a piece of interfacing, two pieces of main fabric right sides together, and the second piece of interfacing together. |
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| Place the other two pieces of main fabric, right sides together |
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| Sew the front center seams together on both the stack of 4 (with interfacing) and the 2 pieces. Sewing is fine, you don't need a serger. I use a serger because it's faster. |
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| Open the filter pocket, and the piece without the interfacing. Place them right-sides up (the wrong side of the pocket will be touching the right side of the main fabric) |
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| Place the piece with the interfacing right sides together with the filter pocket and pin in place. |
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| From cutting table to ceiling piece with no interfacing (black fabric) lining pocket (light colored shorter piece) outer mask (black fabric) with the interfacing attached at center seam. |
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| Sew along the top edge. |
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| Flip right side out, hammer the top center seam if it is thick. It will be much easier to sew the wire in place if that part is flattened a little. (Thanks Dad! This is my favorite sewing room hammer!) |
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| Add a piece of wire under the nose seam. |
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| Pin in place from the outside. Mark the ends of the wire so you don't accidentally sew over them. |
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| Topstitch around the wire. |
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| Flip right sides together and pin in place. |
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| Stitch 1/4" from the bottom edge. |
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| Flip the tube right side out, press the bottom seam. |
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| Turn the side edges under, slip elastic into the top edge and about 3/4" away from the bottom edge. I use Elmer's washable school glue instead of pins. Seal the edges with an iron if you use glue. |
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| Sew down one side, along the bottom, and up the other side. Double stitch over the elastics. Add pleats with a corn holder (or your fingers) so the mask fits a little closer to the sides of your face. |
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| Done! |
You may have to fiddle with the elastic length. I use 6" on either side for adult sizes. You may need elastic that is slightly longer, or slightly shorter depending on the size of the face you're trying to fit.
Wash before use!
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| These are the instructions I send out with masks. |
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| The two masks on the left used exactly the same pattern pieces. The bottom one was sewn using these instructions, the top was sewn using the instructions in this post. You will have a smaller mask using the Craft Passion instructions. The blue mask was made using the size listed for men. The floral was made using the pattern pieces for women. |
One more video with some good information
Although she said the 'duck bill' style didn't pass the test, other testers have found that the 'duck bill' style does pass the test if elastic is used.
The other person who did the testing is developing the duck bill style mask for home sewers who are making masks for use in the healthcare industry. You may or may not need as much protection as health care workers do. Please use your best judgement.
Tiana's Closet has an interesting mask pattern that looks easy to sew, and has a pocket.
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